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Wiring Sockets And Channeling Walls
- By Oliver Ridgway
- Published February 5, 2008
- Home Management
- Unrated
Oliver Ridgway
Johan Nickson is a Freelance Power Tool Consultant. Johan is Dewalt Expert and an avid Rotary Hammer with chisel action user.
View all articles by Oliver Ridgway
Cut the chase angling the chisel the direction you want it to cut.
Make your channel just wide and deep enough to accommodate the cable. If you are fitting a flush-mounted socket, cut out a recess about 7-8mm deeper than the backing box. Fix the box is place using screws and wallplugs.
An easy way to cut a recess for the backing box is to first loosen the brickwork by drilling a number of closely spaced holes and then taking out the excess with your chisel.
Thread a length of cable into the channel and secure it every 300mm with cable clips. Knock out one of the cable entry blanks, add a grommet, and feed the cable into the backing box of each outlet. Strip the cable, bare the wires and attach them to the terminals on both sockets.
To repair damaged areas, load your plaster on to a small board and stand near the wall. Pick up a small amount of plaster on a filling knife and press it hard into the channel.
Once the damaged area has been filled, place a timber straightedge across the face of the wall and move it slowly backwards and forwards in a sawing motion. Work up and down the wall so that the plaster is smoothed off neatly. Sand any ridges when it is dry.
An alternative to channeling is to use plastic conduit.
Start by fitting the backing box in place using impact adhesive or plugs and screws. Then measure and cut the backing pieces to length – use a junior hacksaw
– and fix them into position.
Feed the cable into place making sure there are no twists or kinks (some manufacturers supply small clips which are spaced along the top of the conduit to hold the cable tightly. Lead the cable into both backing boxes, strip the ends and make the electrical connections to each socket.
Trim the conduit covers to lenth and snap them into place on top of the backing pieces (fit angled adapters as well, if supplied). Screw both faceplates into position, then turn the power back on at the mains.
Tip: Disguise plastic conduit by painting it the same colour as the skirting board or architrave it runs along.
Tip: When wiring the new socket (or fused connector) double over the end of each wire so that it is gripped more tightly (and safely) in the terminal.
Tip: When stripping cable. Start with the outer sheathing. Slit the sheath lengthways with a sharp penknife or trimming knife. Do not cut back too far. 75mm Should be more than adequate for most wiring. Peel back the sheathing like the skin of a banana and cut off the waste.
The best way to strip the live and neutral wires is with a dedicated wire stripper – a cheap, easy to use tool you can buy from any DIY store. At a pinch, you could cut around the insulation with a knife; but take extra care not to nick the wires. Don’t use pliers- there are too difficult to control accurately.
NB: Please note you have to be a certified electrician to perform any wiring in the UK. This article is for curiosity porpoises only.
Make your channel just wide and deep enough to accommodate the cable. If you are fitting a flush-mounted socket, cut out a recess about 7-8mm deeper than the backing box. Fix the box is place using screws and wallplugs.
An easy way to cut a recess for the backing box is to first loosen the brickwork by drilling a number of closely spaced holes and then taking out the excess with your chisel.
Thread a length of cable into the channel and secure it every 300mm with cable clips. Knock out one of the cable entry blanks, add a grommet, and feed the cable into the backing box of each outlet. Strip the cable, bare the wires and attach them to the terminals on both sockets.
To repair damaged areas, load your plaster on to a small board and stand near the wall. Pick up a small amount of plaster on a filling knife and press it hard into the channel.
Once the damaged area has been filled, place a timber straightedge across the face of the wall and move it slowly backwards and forwards in a sawing motion. Work up and down the wall so that the plaster is smoothed off neatly. Sand any ridges when it is dry.
An alternative to channeling is to use plastic conduit.
Start by fitting the backing box in place using impact adhesive or plugs and screws. Then measure and cut the backing pieces to length – use a junior hacksaw
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Feed the cable into place making sure there are no twists or kinks (some manufacturers supply small clips which are spaced along the top of the conduit to hold the cable tightly. Lead the cable into both backing boxes, strip the ends and make the electrical connections to each socket.
Trim the conduit covers to lenth and snap them into place on top of the backing pieces (fit angled adapters as well, if supplied). Screw both faceplates into position, then turn the power back on at the mains.
Tip: Disguise plastic conduit by painting it the same colour as the skirting board or architrave it runs along.
Tip: When wiring the new socket (or fused connector) double over the end of each wire so that it is gripped more tightly (and safely) in the terminal.
Tip: When stripping cable. Start with the outer sheathing. Slit the sheath lengthways with a sharp penknife or trimming knife. Do not cut back too far. 75mm Should be more than adequate for most wiring. Peel back the sheathing like the skin of a banana and cut off the waste.
The best way to strip the live and neutral wires is with a dedicated wire stripper – a cheap, easy to use tool you can buy from any DIY store. At a pinch, you could cut around the insulation with a knife; but take extra care not to nick the wires. Don’t use pliers- there are too difficult to control accurately.
NB: Please note you have to be a certified electrician to perform any wiring in the UK. This article is for curiosity porpoises only.